Forum >WiFi Sheild problems
WiFi Sheild problems

Hi
I have just bought the dfrobot wifi sheild for arduino and have managed to get it working but then I changed my power supply to one with a little more voltage as I was getting a voltage drop of 1.2 volts on the previous supply and couldn't run my lcd as instead of 5 volts I was getting 3.9 volts on the 5 volt pin. I then noticed after measuring voltages across the voltage regulator that my sys LED went very dim and the wifi stopped working :( (wondering if maybe I accidentally connected the output pin with the input pin with the multimeter prong causing an over voltage :-[ ) . I know that one of four things could have happened:
1. wiznet module is dead or half dead (sys led lit very dim) means power is still going through module
2. dfrobot interface dead
3. both interface and module dead
4. over voltage protection diode if this sheild has one (don't think so because the sys led is still dimly lit).
Wondering if anyone has any ideas on what could be the defective component as it is a lot cheaper to buy just the wiznet module rather than buy a whole new sheild :-\
I also would be very thankful if someone could tell me the max input voltage of this sheild.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks :)
I have just bought the dfrobot wifi sheild for arduino and have managed to get it working but then I changed my power supply to one with a little more voltage as I was getting a voltage drop of 1.2 volts on the previous supply and couldn't run my lcd as instead of 5 volts I was getting 3.9 volts on the 5 volt pin. I then noticed after measuring voltages across the voltage regulator that my sys LED went very dim and the wifi stopped working :( (wondering if maybe I accidentally connected the output pin with the input pin with the multimeter prong causing an over voltage :-[ ) . I know that one of four things could have happened:
1. wiznet module is dead or half dead (sys led lit very dim) means power is still going through module
2. dfrobot interface dead
3. both interface and module dead
4. over voltage protection diode if this sheild has one (don't think so because the sys led is still dimly lit).
Wondering if anyone has any ideas on what could be the defective component as it is a lot cheaper to buy just the wiznet module rather than buy a whole new sheild :-\
I also would be very thankful if someone could tell me the max input voltage of this sheild.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks :)
2011-07-14 02:27:58 Hi Jonczu,
The Default gateway should be your router's IP address. usually its 192.168.1.1
You can go into ms-dos prompt by going to start and "run" and type "cmd" or in windows 7 just type cmd into the start menu.
Then type ipconfig
This should display some info and you need to look for the default gateway.
and you should leave the DNS field blank, it will populate it's self...
Hector
The Default gateway should be your router's IP address. usually its 192.168.1.1
You can go into ms-dos prompt by going to start and "run" and type "cmd" or in windows 7 just type cmd into the start menu.
Then type ipconfig
This should display some info and you need to look for the default gateway.
and you should leave the DNS field blank, it will populate it's self...

2011-07-14 02:27:58 Hi Jonczu,
The Default gateway should be your router's IP address. usually its 192.168.1.1
You can go into ms-dos prompt by going to start and "run" and type "cmd" or in windows 7 just type cmd into the start menu.
Then type ipconfig
This should display some info and you need to look for the default gateway.
and you should leave the DNS field blank, it will populate it's self...
Hector
The Default gateway should be your router's IP address. usually its 192.168.1.1
You can go into ms-dos prompt by going to start and "run" and type "cmd" or in windows 7 just type cmd into the start menu.
Then type ipconfig
This should display some info and you need to look for the default gateway.
and you should leave the DNS field blank, it will populate it's self...

2011-07-14 01:33:29 Hi Hector
Having slight issues connecting my board to my access point. I followed your tutorial but I get this error when I want to apply changes.
I've attached a file with the screen shot
Thanks
Jon Czudek
Jonczu
Having slight issues connecting my board to my access point. I followed your tutorial but I get this error when I want to apply changes.
I've attached a file with the screen shot
Thanks
Jon Czudek

2011-07-14 01:33:29 Hi Hector
Having slight issues connecting my board to my access point. I followed your tutorial but I get this error when I want to apply changes.
I've attached a file with the screen shot
Thanks
Jon Czudek
Jonczu
Having slight issues connecting my board to my access point. I followed your tutorial but I get this error when I want to apply changes.
I've attached a file with the screen shot
Thanks
Jon Czudek

2011-07-14 00:03:38 I have posted a Wifi shield tutorial on our blog. Here is the forum post which links to the tutorial:
https://www.dfrobot.com/forum/index.php?topic=154.0
Hector
https://www.dfrobot.com/forum/index.php?topic=154.0

2011-07-14 00:03:38 I have posted a Wifi shield tutorial on our blog. Here is the forum post which links to the tutorial:
https://www.dfrobot.com/forum/index.php?topic=154.0
Hector
https://www.dfrobot.com/forum/index.php?topic=154.0

2011-07-10 08:55:06 I believe the schematic does not match the board.
The 3.3v regulator in the schematic is attached to the 5v line but on my (two) boards they are attached to the VIN line.
That means the WiFi board does not take its power from the 5v line. Not an issue if it is powered by a battery or whatever BUT the 5v pin J4 pin3 is not connected to the J4E pin 3 so any shields plugged in on top of the WiFi shield will not receive power from the 5v line. Get an ohm meter and test it, it may be the problem why your LCD did not work.
Paul
The 3.3v regulator in the schematic is attached to the 5v line but on my (two) boards they are attached to the VIN line.
That means the WiFi board does not take its power from the 5v line. Not an issue if it is powered by a battery or whatever BUT the 5v pin J4 pin3 is not connected to the J4E pin 3 so any shields plugged in on top of the WiFi shield will not receive power from the 5v line. Get an ohm meter and test it, it may be the problem why your LCD did not work.

2011-07-10 08:55:06 I believe the schematic does not match the board.
The 3.3v regulator in the schematic is attached to the 5v line but on my (two) boards they are attached to the VIN line.
That means the WiFi board does not take its power from the 5v line. Not an issue if it is powered by a battery or whatever BUT the 5v pin J4 pin3 is not connected to the J4E pin 3 so any shields plugged in on top of the WiFi shield will not receive power from the 5v line. Get an ohm meter and test it, it may be the problem why your LCD did not work.
Paul
The 3.3v regulator in the schematic is attached to the 5v line but on my (two) boards they are attached to the VIN line.
That means the WiFi board does not take its power from the 5v line. Not an issue if it is powered by a battery or whatever BUT the 5v pin J4 pin3 is not connected to the J4E pin 3 so any shields plugged in on top of the WiFi shield will not receive power from the 5v line. Get an ohm meter and test it, it may be the problem why your LCD did not work.

2011-06-14 05:45:41 Hi
Thankyou all for your input into this matter
Hector:
I am powering the sheild through the arduino and am either using USB or plug pack never both at the same time. As with running the sheild without the LCD I have tried that and no success. :(
Note: the wifi module has it's own wifi server for set up and it converts common web protocols to uart therefor it only uses the tx rx pins on the arduino, no sketch is required only serial read.
More info: https://www.dfrobot.com/image/data/TEL0019/WIZ610WI_User_Manual_Eng_V1.9.1.pdf
Admin:
Thanks for the quick reply. I did use a 12v 1a supply at one stage but I found that the regulator on the sheild was getting very hot and wasn't sure whether it is rated at a 12v input as I looked up the part number of the regulator on the net and found some data sheets stating the max input voltage to be 5v (there must be different models of that reg if you say that it is rated at 12v). Just wanted to make sure. :D
I seems that the only practical solution I have is to buy another shield and swap things around to see what works and doesn't work. :-\
Thanks;
Jon Czudek
Jonczu
Thankyou all for your input into this matter
Hector:
I am powering the sheild through the arduino and am either using USB or plug pack never both at the same time. As with running the sheild without the LCD I have tried that and no success. :(
Note: the wifi module has it's own wifi server for set up and it converts common web protocols to uart therefor it only uses the tx rx pins on the arduino, no sketch is required only serial read.
More info: https://www.dfrobot.com/image/data/TEL0019/WIZ610WI_User_Manual_Eng_V1.9.1.pdf
Admin:
Thanks for the quick reply. I did use a 12v 1a supply at one stage but I found that the regulator on the sheild was getting very hot and wasn't sure whether it is rated at a 12v input as I looked up the part number of the regulator on the net and found some data sheets stating the max input voltage to be 5v (there must be different models of that reg if you say that it is rated at 12v). Just wanted to make sure. :D
I seems that the only practical solution I have is to buy another shield and swap things around to see what works and doesn't work. :-\
Thanks;
Jon Czudek

2011-06-14 05:45:41 Hi
Thankyou all for your input into this matter
Hector:
I am powering the sheild through the arduino and am either using USB or plug pack never both at the same time. As with running the sheild without the LCD I have tried that and no success. :(
Note: the wifi module has it's own wifi server for set up and it converts common web protocols to uart therefor it only uses the tx rx pins on the arduino, no sketch is required only serial read.
More info: https://www.dfrobot.com/image/data/TEL0019/WIZ610WI_User_Manual_Eng_V1.9.1.pdf
Admin:
Thanks for the quick reply. I did use a 12v 1a supply at one stage but I found that the regulator on the sheild was getting very hot and wasn't sure whether it is rated at a 12v input as I looked up the part number of the regulator on the net and found some data sheets stating the max input voltage to be 5v (there must be different models of that reg if you say that it is rated at 12v). Just wanted to make sure. :D
I seems that the only practical solution I have is to buy another shield and swap things around to see what works and doesn't work. :-\
Thanks;
Jon Czudek
Jonczu
Thankyou all for your input into this matter
Hector:
I am powering the sheild through the arduino and am either using USB or plug pack never both at the same time. As with running the sheild without the LCD I have tried that and no success. :(
Note: the wifi module has it's own wifi server for set up and it converts common web protocols to uart therefor it only uses the tx rx pins on the arduino, no sketch is required only serial read.
More info: https://www.dfrobot.com/image/data/TEL0019/WIZ610WI_User_Manual_Eng_V1.9.1.pdf
Admin:
Thanks for the quick reply. I did use a 12v 1a supply at one stage but I found that the regulator on the sheild was getting very hot and wasn't sure whether it is rated at a 12v input as I looked up the part number of the regulator on the net and found some data sheets stating the max input voltage to be 5v (there must be different models of that reg if you say that it is rated at 12v). Just wanted to make sure. :D
I seems that the only practical solution I have is to buy another shield and swap things around to see what works and doesn't work. :-\
Thanks;
Jon Czudek

2011-06-13 23:50:56 One more updates. The wifi shield has a regulator which can work with 12V. So you should not be able to damage it.
Another thing probably is that you don't have enough current. Especially when you use LCD shield, arduino and wifi at the same time.
Check the current to see you feed enough juice.
R2D2C3PO
Another thing probably is that you don't have enough current. Especially when you use LCD shield, arduino and wifi at the same time.
Check the current to see you feed enough juice.

2011-06-13 23:50:56 One more updates. The wifi shield has a regulator which can work with 12V. So you should not be able to damage it.
Another thing probably is that you don't have enough current. Especially when you use LCD shield, arduino and wifi at the same time.
Check the current to see you feed enough juice.
R2D2C3PO
Another thing probably is that you don't have enough current. Especially when you use LCD shield, arduino and wifi at the same time.
Check the current to see you feed enough juice.

2011-06-13 23:00:50 Jonczu,
Were you supplying voltage directly to the wifi board? the board only supports 3.3v. The Arduino is capable of supporting from 6 to 20Vdc, although the recommended is from 7 to 12Vdc. So maybe you are not supplying enough voltage to the Arduino externally, that is, do not try to supply external voltage along with USB power. If you are plugging in the Wifi Shield to the Arduino directly, chances are that everything is fine and you should try to power the Arduino and wifi shield alone through USB to see if the problem corrects itself.
So try the following:
Unplug the LCD, leaving only the Wifi Shield and arduino connected.
Connect the Arduino to USB and load a "known working" sketch that uses the Wifi shield.
IF it does work, then try to increase your supply voltage to 9Vdc. This should be enough to power the LCD and WiFi shield
Let us know your results.
Hector,
PS No worries, we're here to help :)
Hector
Were you supplying voltage directly to the wifi board? the board only supports 3.3v. The Arduino is capable of supporting from 6 to 20Vdc, although the recommended is from 7 to 12Vdc. So maybe you are not supplying enough voltage to the Arduino externally, that is, do not try to supply external voltage along with USB power. If you are plugging in the Wifi Shield to the Arduino directly, chances are that everything is fine and you should try to power the Arduino and wifi shield alone through USB to see if the problem corrects itself.
So try the following:
Unplug the LCD, leaving only the Wifi Shield and arduino connected.
Connect the Arduino to USB and load a "known working" sketch that uses the Wifi shield.
IF it does work, then try to increase your supply voltage to 9Vdc. This should be enough to power the LCD and WiFi shield
Let us know your results.
Hector,
PS No worries, we're here to help :)

2011-06-13 23:00:50 Jonczu,
Were you supplying voltage directly to the wifi board? the board only supports 3.3v. The Arduino is capable of supporting from 6 to 20Vdc, although the recommended is from 7 to 12Vdc. So maybe you are not supplying enough voltage to the Arduino externally, that is, do not try to supply external voltage along with USB power. If you are plugging in the Wifi Shield to the Arduino directly, chances are that everything is fine and you should try to power the Arduino and wifi shield alone through USB to see if the problem corrects itself.
So try the following:
Unplug the LCD, leaving only the Wifi Shield and arduino connected.
Connect the Arduino to USB and load a "known working" sketch that uses the Wifi shield.
IF it does work, then try to increase your supply voltage to 9Vdc. This should be enough to power the LCD and WiFi shield
Let us know your results.
Hector,
PS No worries, we're here to help :)
Hector
Were you supplying voltage directly to the wifi board? the board only supports 3.3v. The Arduino is capable of supporting from 6 to 20Vdc, although the recommended is from 7 to 12Vdc. So maybe you are not supplying enough voltage to the Arduino externally, that is, do not try to supply external voltage along with USB power. If you are plugging in the Wifi Shield to the Arduino directly, chances are that everything is fine and you should try to power the Arduino and wifi shield alone through USB to see if the problem corrects itself.
So try the following:
Unplug the LCD, leaving only the Wifi Shield and arduino connected.
Connect the Arduino to USB and load a "known working" sketch that uses the Wifi shield.
IF it does work, then try to increase your supply voltage to 9Vdc. This should be enough to power the LCD and WiFi shield
Let us know your results.
Hector,
PS No worries, we're here to help :)

2011-06-13 19:58:05 Hi Hector,
Thanks for the reply, the board I'm running is the arduino UNO. The voltages that I was measuring where across the voltage regulator on the wifi sheild I'm thinking that I shorted the input and output of the regulator accidentally with the multimeter prong :-[ (very embarrassing as I'm an electrician and a slip when testing can be fatal on high voltage, not using enough care on low voltage in this case has proved expensiv).
Yes, I have tried to use the previous supply and the issue persists.
First power supply 5 volts
Second power supply 6 volts
I personally think something has gone dead because of over voltage, what I want to find out is whether the module is gone or the sheild that powers it.
Max voltage the shield can take would also be helpful to know for the future.
Thanks again, :)
Jonczu
PS sorry if I've waffled to much.
Jonczu
Thanks for the reply, the board I'm running is the arduino UNO. The voltages that I was measuring where across the voltage regulator on the wifi sheild I'm thinking that I shorted the input and output of the regulator accidentally with the multimeter prong :-[ (very embarrassing as I'm an electrician and a slip when testing can be fatal on high voltage, not using enough care on low voltage in this case has proved expensiv).
Yes, I have tried to use the previous supply and the issue persists.
First power supply 5 volts
Second power supply 6 volts
I personally think something has gone dead because of over voltage, what I want to find out is whether the module is gone or the sheild that powers it.
Max voltage the shield can take would also be helpful to know for the future.
Thanks again, :)
Jonczu
PS sorry if I've waffled to much.

2011-06-13 19:58:05 Hi Hector,
Thanks for the reply, the board I'm running is the arduino UNO. The voltages that I was measuring where across the voltage regulator on the wifi sheild I'm thinking that I shorted the input and output of the regulator accidentally with the multimeter prong :-[ (very embarrassing as I'm an electrician and a slip when testing can be fatal on high voltage, not using enough care on low voltage in this case has proved expensiv).
Yes, I have tried to use the previous supply and the issue persists.
First power supply 5 volts
Second power supply 6 volts
I personally think something has gone dead because of over voltage, what I want to find out is whether the module is gone or the sheild that powers it.
Max voltage the shield can take would also be helpful to know for the future.
Thanks again, :)
Jonczu
PS sorry if I've waffled to much.
Jonczu
Thanks for the reply, the board I'm running is the arduino UNO. The voltages that I was measuring where across the voltage regulator on the wifi sheild I'm thinking that I shorted the input and output of the regulator accidentally with the multimeter prong :-[ (very embarrassing as I'm an electrician and a slip when testing can be fatal on high voltage, not using enough care on low voltage in this case has proved expensiv).
Yes, I have tried to use the previous supply and the issue persists.
First power supply 5 volts
Second power supply 6 volts
I personally think something has gone dead because of over voltage, what I want to find out is whether the module is gone or the sheild that powers it.
Max voltage the shield can take would also be helpful to know for the future.
Thanks again, :)
Jonczu
PS sorry if I've waffled to much.

2011-06-13 19:07:39 Hi Jonczu,
Which Arduino board are you using? Which pins did you measure across?
Have you tried using the previous power supply, to see if the WiFi shield starts working again?
How many volts were you supplying at first? How many volts did you increase to?
Hector
Which Arduino board are you using? Which pins did you measure across?
Have you tried using the previous power supply, to see if the WiFi shield starts working again?
How many volts were you supplying at first? How many volts did you increase to?

2011-06-13 19:07:39 Hi Jonczu,
Which Arduino board are you using? Which pins did you measure across?
Have you tried using the previous power supply, to see if the WiFi shield starts working again?
How many volts were you supplying at first? How many volts did you increase to?
Hector
Which Arduino board are you using? Which pins did you measure across?
Have you tried using the previous power supply, to see if the WiFi shield starts working again?
How many volts were you supplying at first? How many volts did you increase to?

2011-06-11 20:14:12 Hi
I have just bought the dfrobot wifi sheild for arduino and have managed to get it working but then I changed my power supply to one with a little more voltage as I was getting a voltage drop of 1.2 volts on the previous supply and couldn't run my lcd as instead of 5 volts I was getting 3.9 volts on the 5 volt pin. I then noticed after measuring voltages across the voltage regulator that my sys LED went very dim and the wifi stopped working :( (wondering if maybe I accidentally connected the output pin with the input pin with the multimeter prong causing an over voltage :-[ ) . I know that one of four things could have happened:
1. wiznet module is dead or half dead (sys led lit very dim) means power is still going through module
2. dfrobot interface dead
3. both interface and module dead
4. over voltage protection diode if this sheild has one (don't think so because the sys led is still dimly lit).
Wondering if anyone has any ideas on what could be the defective component as it is a lot cheaper to buy just the wiznet module rather than buy a whole new sheild :-\
I also would be very thankful if someone could tell me the max input voltage of this sheild.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks :)
Jonczu
I have just bought the dfrobot wifi sheild for arduino and have managed to get it working but then I changed my power supply to one with a little more voltage as I was getting a voltage drop of 1.2 volts on the previous supply and couldn't run my lcd as instead of 5 volts I was getting 3.9 volts on the 5 volt pin. I then noticed after measuring voltages across the voltage regulator that my sys LED went very dim and the wifi stopped working :( (wondering if maybe I accidentally connected the output pin with the input pin with the multimeter prong causing an over voltage :-[ ) . I know that one of four things could have happened:
1. wiznet module is dead or half dead (sys led lit very dim) means power is still going through module
2. dfrobot interface dead
3. both interface and module dead
4. over voltage protection diode if this sheild has one (don't think so because the sys led is still dimly lit).
Wondering if anyone has any ideas on what could be the defective component as it is a lot cheaper to buy just the wiznet module rather than buy a whole new sheild :-\
I also would be very thankful if someone could tell me the max input voltage of this sheild.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks :)
